Turn shoe



oct. s, 1935. 4MULLER 2,016,902

TURN SHO E Filed April l6, 1934 2 Sl'xeets-Sheefl l INVENTOR mmm www1-M ATTORNEY C, MILLER TURN SHOE y oct. s, 1935.

Filed April 16, 1934 I 2 SheetS-Sheeb 2 INVENTOR BY Aga/wa ATTORNEY Patented Oct. 8, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFicE 411 Claims.

This invention relates to the shoe art and deals more specically with a new and improved shoe structure including a novel shank construction.

It is an object of this invention to produce a ladys shoe having all the desirable qualities as to flexibility and appearance and having at the same time a continuous sweep of the upper over the shank, without the usual outsole piece at the shank between the tread surface of the sole and liv-'the breast of the heel.

A further object ofV this invention is to make a turn shoe in which the shank portion of the finished product is covered by the upper material. And. it is a further object of this invention to produce a turn shoe having exposed upper material at the shank instead of the usual shank portion of the outsole, without substantially altering' ther standard practice of making turn shoes.

2W These and other objects of the invention will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l isa perspective view of the bottom of a 25 shoe embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing a shoe assembled inside out on` the last, after the first lasting.

Fig. 3 is a cross section taken on the line 3-3 30` of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a schematic view of a sole used in this shoe.

Fig. 5 is a viewsimilar to Fig; 1 showing a modification.

35A Fig. 6 is a section in the line 6 6 of Fig. 5.

Fig. `7 is a section similar to that of Fig. 6 showing the shoe inside out prior to the operation of' turning.

Fig. 8 is a sectional View similar to Fig. 6 showing a modification.

Referring in detail to the drawings, the shoe is seen to comprise the upper II, heel I2, and outsole I3. The upper is made up of the vamp i I4, forward quarters I 5 and rear quarters I6. 45f An outsole I3 of the type commonly used in making turn shoes, channelled at 2B to provide the lip 2 I, is split from the rear forwardly to the ball line to provide the main sole portion 22 and flap 23. The ap 23 is of a thickness usually 50' provided in such outsoles for the purpose of covering the shank portion of the shoe and serving as the breast covering for the heel. After the splitting operation, the shank portion 24 of the Y ap 23 is cut away, leaving the piece 25 which is 55 to serve as the heel breast, and leaving also the portion 216 which serves as the tread surface of the sole. A cellulose cement is applied to the heel. portion of the surface between the portion 22 and the flap 23 prior to the cutting away of 60 24, and the cemented parts are rendered suinciently tacky to hold the piece 25 detachably in place on the sole until the shoe is ready for the attachment of the heel andthe breast cover.

An outsole thus prepared is tempered and tacked on a last with the lip 2| exposed. An up- 5 per Ill-lt, doubler iii and lining 3i cut to the desired shape are now assembled over the last 33, pulled over and tacked in place temporarily. A counter 32 is inserted between the lining and the doubler and is also tacked to the last, espe- 10l cially around the heel. The operations thus far described are well understood in the art of turn shoe manufacture.

In shaping the upper, doubler and lining prior to the lasting operation, an extension Ia. is l5 formed on the quarter I5 of the upper, but the lining and doubler are shaped in the normal way. As seen in Fig. 2 the extension Ia is tucked under the shank part of the outsole between the same and the last, and turned over onto the sewing lip 2 I. When the shoe is lasted, the extension Ia is pulled taut to take out any stretch which might be in the material forming this part. The extension Illa. is tacked down by tacks 36 to hold the same in place until the sewing operation. In the present embodiment the extension I'a, is formed on the outer side of the upper and extends over to the inner side. For example, for a right shoe the extension extends from the right to the left, as the wearer sees the shoe.

The sewing operation is now carried out. Referring to Figs. 2 and 3, stitches 3l are passed into the channel 2Q through the lip 2|, and through the counter, doubler, lining and upper,

the stitches being run completely around the periphery of the shoe. It will be understood that at that portion where the nap IbaI is tucked under the outsole (Fig. 2) only the lining, doubler, and counterl are stitched to the lip 2l on the outer side of the shoe (Fig. 3), while on the inner 40 side of the shoe the flap or extension Ilia together with the lining, doubler, counter, and upper are stitched to the lip. For the sake of clarity in this description the side marked A (Fig. 3) is referred to as the inner side while the side marked B is referred to as the outer side.

After the sewing, the surplus material is trimmed away and the shoe is turned right side out, the parts thus assuming the relative positions as illustrated in Fig. 3.

The heel is attached and the nap 25 is applied to the breast thereof. Referring to Fig. 4 it will be noted that the portion 26 comes to a point 26a which is suitably shaped to give a neat appearance when the shoe iscompleted. Of course, the extension Eea extends under the point 26a. The usual finishing operations are performed to complete the shoe.

By virtue of the present invention the shank portion of the shoe is not broken up by the portion of the outsole which usually comes at this point, but rather the quarter is one continuous piece extending from the top marginal edge of the upper completely around to the sewing lip on the side A (Figs. l and 3). This gives the desirable results of permitting one continuous design to be applied to the part l5a as a continuation of the ornamentation 40 on the quarter (Fig. 1). The novel shankless construction is also realized by virtue of the foregoing construction.

The foregoing structure deals with a shoe in which extension 15a terminates on the inner side A of the shoe. Under certain circumstances it is desirable that the extension run from the inner side A and terminate on the outer side B of the shoe. This result may be had in accordance with the principles of the present invention, as more fully hereinafter explained.

Referring in detail to Figs. 5, 6, and 7 a shoe having the same construction as that shown in Figs. 1-3 is disclosed, similar reference characters being applied to similar parts. In constructing this modification, the same procedure is followed as in the making of the first modification, with the exception that the flap |5a is formed on that part of the upper which comes at the inner side (A) and is brought under the sole through to the outer side (B) where it is sewed to the lip 2l. (Figs. 6 and 7.)

Thus it Will be seen that a shoe embodying the principles of the present invention may be constructed with the junction of the extension |5a with the lip 2! either on the inner or outer side of the shoe, as desired.

Now, for certain styles of womens shoes it is desirable to further modify the invention by shaping'the contour of the shank portion of the shoe to produce a triangular eiTect. This is accomplished for example by inserting a strip of leather 50, having a triangular cross section, between the extension |5a. and the sole part 22, as illustrated in Fig. 8, and cementing the same in place. The strip 5B extends under the parts 26a, and 25. Obviously the cross section of 5E! may be of any desired configuration, depending upon the eiiect desired. Also, instead of using the strip 50 the adjacent surface of 22 may be properly shaped to give the desired effect.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

l. A shoe of the class described having a sole, an upper, a shank portion and a heel, said upper being attached to said sole around the entire periphery thereof except on one side of the shankl portion, said upper extending across said shank portion from one side to the other, said sole having an exposed forward portion in the finished shoe terminating adjacent the forward part of said shank portion of the upper.

2. A shoe of the class described having a sole, a heel, a shank portion, and an upper, said upper being provided with an extension, said upper being sewed to said sole completely around the periphery thereof, except at the shank portion where the extension is joined to said upper, the said extension being brought across said shank portion and sewed to said sole, said extension being exposed for substantially the full Width thereof externally of the shoe, and said sole having an exposed forward portion terminating adjacent to the forward part of said extension.

3. A turn shoe comprising a sole provided with a channel and lip to receive stitches, an upper stitched to said lip, except at one side of the shank portion of said sole, and having a section extending across said shank portion and stitched to the other side thereof and a heel attached to said shoe.

4. A turn shoe comprising in combination, a sole, an upper attached to said sole, a portion of said sole being out away at the shank, and a covering of the said upper extending across said portion and attached to the marginal portion of said sole.

5. A turn shoe comprising in combination, a sole, an upper attached to said sole, a portion of said sole being cut away at the shank, an extension formed on said upper, said extension being drawn across said cut away portion and having its edge attached to the marginal portion of said sole.

6. A turn shoe having a sole provided with a lip to which the upper is to be sewed, an upper, said upper being sewed to said lip peripherally thereof except for a predetermined part, that portion of the upper which is adjacent to said last mentioned part being brought across said sole and sewed to the lip on the opposite side of the a sewing lip, lasting an upper, having an exten-A sion and attached lining over said last and temporarily attaching same to said sole, inserting said extension under said sole, inserting a counter between the upper and the lining, sewing the upper and lining and counter to said lip, pulling the edge of said extension over onto said lip, removing the last, turning the shoe, and finishing the same.

9. The method of making turn shoes which comprises preparing a sole with a lip to receive stitches, splitting said sole to provide a heel breast and a shank portion, cutting away the shank portion of said split part, mounting said sole on a last, lasting an upper having an extension over said last and temporarily tacking the same to said sole, pulling said extension through under said sole and tacking it to said lip, sewing said upper and the extension to said lip, turning the shoe, attaching a heel and a heel breast and finishing the shoe.

10. The method of making shoes which coinprises splitting a sole from the heel to substantially the ball line, removing heel and shank sections from one of the split portions forming a sole of reduced thickness at the heel and shank, attaching an upper to said sole with the full width of the reduced shank portion thereof covered by the upper, and nishing the shoe.

11. The method of making shoes which comprises lasting an upper wrong side out and attaching the same to a sole by extending a portion of the upper from one side of the shank thereacross to the other side of the shank and securing it to the sole at the last mentioned sidev of the shank, removing the last, turning the shoe, and nshing the shoe.

CHARLES MILLER. 

